9 Final exposed Prints

Hi everyone

Today I would like to present you all of my 9 final prints I have produces for past 2 months. It was an amazing experience working in dark room , gaining new Photography experience, and grab some essential knowledge and tips about black and white printing. I very enjoyed working with my Master Andrew Sanderson who I really admire in dark room. I hope Ill get a chance once day to work with him again.  

So here they are all my 9 exposed prints. Enjoy!!

Developing Prints

Hi Readers! 

Today another day in Dark Room. I must admit I absolutely love this place and if I'm going  have to leave Photography for some reason I won't be happy at all. 

But anyway, lets go back to the important things I will mention today. 

I will be talking through of how to develop prints I was doing. 

Checking the paper: Ok, so the first step is to make sure we have the right paper for our neagtives or contact sheet. I was using standard printing paper ( not sure about the name though). I also check if the paper haven't got any cuts or stains that may have impact on any of my prints. 

Cutting the paper into little strips: Then I cut one paper for many little test strips. I like bold strips, so more of the image can fit onto one strip. 

Setting up the light: The timer must be on before anything is done. Then I set up my enlarger. The light must be at the lightest possible, bright light won't work. Then Set up the measure board for small photos, but I didn't use it for my contact sheet. I use this board only to mark position where the light from enlarger is. I always have to be sure that the edges of the "rectangle" light are clear enough, the reason behind is, the sharpness of the print. If the rectangle edges won't be clear enough it means the exposure won't be sharp and the print maybe ruined by this. 

Positioning test strips with film: The next step is to place the print paper where the marked lines are and on top of if put only one sleeve of the film. This is because I don't need to use whole paper print, I just need to use the test strip I made before ( this is called, saving paper and money ). I have to make sure though that the film strip and the paper strip are positioned even to each other. 

Glass black carboard cover: Then I cover the paper and the film with a piece of a rectangle glass. It can't be something else, because glass I have to see the film strip but on the other hand I have to keep the film in a stable position.  

Next step is to get preffebly piece of black paper or something thin to cover bit by bit of the film. This equipment is really important to be black , and not transparent. There can't be any light coming through this paper or carboard, otherwise this will ruin the whole process of test strips.  

Set up the time: I've been told to set the time for 2 seconds at the beginning. Once I cover few cm of the film with a black carboard I can move further till the end of the film strip. I think its important to do it from left to right, because it is just easier if you're right handed. If somebody is left handed they could try from right to left eventually. 

Trial go: The first trial test went ok, there was no issues at all. I numbered the times of each exposure, from 2 seconds to 18 seconds. And I have decided to expose my contact sheet full in 18 seconds. 

Printing negatives: So now is the step to drawn test strip  into "Devon" mix for a minute. Then "stop" for 30 seconds, then "Fixer" for a minute , and then straight to the tap cold water. For quick soaking prints I was adviced to do 30 seconds in the tap water, but Andy Sanderson told me to expose full effect of the print I have to leave my prints in the tap water for at least half an hour. As the silver toner in a paper will slowly come out after long soak in water. The last step is either to put the prints on a dryer or take it to express dryer machine. I recommend express dryer machine, because the effects are instant, and there is no need to wait so long to review our final prints. 

Exposing contact sheet: I lay down my print paper onto the measure board together with the markings I have made before. Then I set up all my negatives onto the paper, making sure they don't cover each other. Not all of them fits on one paper so I leave some negatives for next exposure. And then I set up the time for 18 seconds like I mentioned before and I cover the negatives with big enough rectangle glass to prevent them from moving at any point while exposing. And then I just press start, wait for 18 seconds and I go for "Printing negatives" step. 

Of course my very first contact sheet was looking not too well because of my luck of experience in shooting pictures with SLR cameras, but once I knew how to do it, majority of the shots went well.

Exposing test strips and full image: 

After developing my contact sheet I had to pick and choose what image I would like to expose. If I do choose one, I have to decide what is going to be size of my image on a paper. So I make a stencil out of normal paper with measurements I want. Then I go to the enlarger, and using my stencil underneath the board's ruler, I try to set them rulers even to the stencil. Once this is sorted I have to make sure the light is in the right position, and its even with the measures I set up before.

If everything above looks correct I need to insert my negative film into negative draw (Im not sure whats the proper name for it ).  I had to take it out of enlarger, open it and insert my negative. I was very careful with the negatives as I didn't want to leave any of my finger prints on it ( it could effect the quality of the print at the end). Obviously when I was doing it first time, I did it upside down, so I had to redo it again, but finally I figured out how to do it.

Checking the focus: Once my negatives were inside "the draw" and the light is at the its brightest, I was trying to focus the image with a focus lenses. I think I had good eye to focusing, because after focusing the image with my eyes I had to take focus "microscope" which works like a microscope, checking the sharpness of the image. By checking the focus of the image through the microscope there must be very small bits of "pixels" , they have to be clear, not blurred or too big. Just like in microscope I can see image in a very small details but to make a stunning clear image to print, I have to use manual focus by the enlarger. It could be difficult task to do but once its done, its easier to do the next print. 

Test strips: test strips are very easy and quick to do. The light need to be turned off (otherwise the print paper could be ruined , just like I did ), and turned to the smallest as possible. And the rest process is developed just like trial strips with contact sheet. Covering individual bits by black cardboard starting from 2 seconds exposure of course ! 

Once I have found the right exposure time and Im sure I want to print this image off, then I don't change any setting in enlarger , all I have to do is to make sure the light is off once I have exposed test strips. Then I insert printing paper (full size) and squeeze it with rulers that are on the board, so prevent it from any unnecessarily shades I don't want etc. And then the printing method is exactly the same as with a test strips, same time etc. 

And that was it for today's session in dark room. I hope I covered everything I needed to mention. 

Developing black and white film

Welcome Readers !
Today I just want to quickly talk about how to print black and white prints and what is the process of it. 

Processing the films is a great fun and amazing form of relaxation ( for me) and keeping right state of mind ( unless you're not doing the prints right). 

So let's say I would like to print some black and white pictures that I have taken by SLR camera with a film inside.

After that, I was told to use a pitch black room , where there can't be any light going through. 

 In this dark room the equipment is need  is following : 

• 35mm Cassette Opener - In order to open the 35mm cartridge

• Scissors- To cut unneeded bits in 35mm film 

• Reels- The size of them depends how big the film is, but mine was plastic made for 35mm films. 

• Developing cans- These cans need to fit the reel , but the one I was using was Paterson 35mm Tank ( You can find it online together with the reel ) 

• Hanging clips - To dry the entire film 

• Measure Cups- They are very important to own, because they gives the right proportions that are necessary in order to produce the film in correct way. 

• Thermometer- To measure the temperature of the "start" 

• Timer- To set up the time that is needed. 

Then another step is to make sure there are the correct materials for it. The materials needed:

• Developer
• Stop Bath 
• Fixer
• Tap Water
• LFN 
• Clear tissue sleeve where the film could be stored. 
• Soft tongs - to take off all unnecessarily water of the film

Be aware: All these chemicals above were stored in a special big containers with a fit lid to prevent licks or any other issues. 

So let's get it started..........

• Once I have all shots on my film, I go to pitch black room with my film, developing can, reel, scissors and cassette opener.

• I organise my equipment, making sure everything is next to me and I'm trying to remember where things are. Film in my left hand, cassette opener in my right hand. 

• I make sure there is no light in the room at all and the room is sealed and pitch black. ( In this case I had to lock the door to prevent anybody coming from outside into the room, as this could ruin all the film! ).

• So now is difficult to do anything , but lets try. I remembered that I have my film cartridge on my left side and the cassette opener on my right hand side, so I take both of them and trying to open the film cartridge. 

• Then I push the film out of the cartridge. 

• I "look" for starting point in my film (which is slightly cut already) and I take scissors and try to cut that starting point.   (Be aware not to cut too much of it though ! )

• Once I have sorted everything above, now I have to take the reel and find two starting points in that reel. The point have to equal to each other and in a right way. (very difficult to do).  Be aware: I was struggling to put my film onto those two starting points , because they were positioned in a opposite direction, which means it was impossible to put the film onto the reel! 

• Lets say I have found the right points, now I have to be very careful and insert starting point of the film between the reel's two starting points.

• Once I have even little bit of staring point of the film already in the reel I can help it go a bit further down the reel by strain it with my hand. I have to make sure the film is still in the reel , not outside it ! 

• If everything feels ok in my hands, I can start wind the film all the way till the end. I still have to be careful how I do it though. I have to have my two thumbs on the reel, holding the film, and rest of my fingers at the button of the reel , in order to wind it. 

• When I have ended winding the film onto the reel I felt the end of the film, so I cut the end of it , but still not too much !

• Everything's nice and winded, so now the next step is to put the reel together with the film inside the developing can, and cover it with a lid that has a included whole to pour the chemicals in , and then cover it with a full lid.

If I could give anybody some advice on this process I would say, take your time, and be patient. Not everything will be perfect, but you can always have a play with reel and spare old film. Winding the film onto reel in pitch black is very hard , but there is always some sort of easy way to do it, its called PRACTICE ! And if its first time when you're doing it, nothing have to be perfect but following the steps is just easier way to do it. 

This is the end of the first process step ! 

Process of pouring the liquids inside the can :
Now is the important process of all, as if I misunderstand or misdo something I can ruin my whole film. Therefore it's important to follow the procedures:

• Measure 300ml of "developer", check the temperature of it, pour the "developer" to the can with the reel and close the lid. 
• Check the time chart, and how long the "developer" have to be inside the can for. Mine had to be for 20 minutes because the temperature of the developer was 21*C..
• I have set the time for 20 minutes, shacking the can delicately in between, and doing little taps as well. This prevent air bubbles that could cause stains on the film at the end.    
• After 20 minutes  I open the main lid and pour the "developer" to the "bin" as this chemical can't be used anymore. 
• Then I do the same process with a "stop Bath", but this time I have to wait 1 minute (without checking the temperature) from the time I have pour it to the can. When I finish I can pour the chemical back to the container, and do the next step. 
• Then the "stop" , waiting 5 minutes, and pour the chemical back to the container. 
• Then take the reel of the can and drop it to the clean tap water container. Making sure the tap water is still running, as it filters all the chemicals from the container for 15 minutes. 
• Then take the film off completely of the reel and drop it to the container with LFN for 5 minutes. 
• Once it's done roll out the film and take excess of water of the film with a soft tongs. 
• Now I can use clips to hang all of my films. Time wise depends if the film is drying naturals or in a drying machine. I was using one for half an hour but it can take longer. 
• Once the film is totally dried with no signs of water drops, I have to cut my film in small pieces. 
• Once this is sorted I have store the film in tissue clear sleeve to prevent any damage to it. 

Be aware of any wet areas on the sleeves or on the film ! Once the film is inside the sleeve and there is water between sleeve and film it cause stains or damages the film ! It happened to me while I was producing my very first film and I have learned to be 100% sure there is no water at all ! 

The whole process take a bit of time and effort especially when you're not experienced and you're confused with all of this, but I did it as well, I made so many mistakes but because I have learned from them now I can say that it's not a good thing to be in a rush and do something like this. Once somebody done it 2 or 3 times the whole time process gets quicker. 

I would like to thank to my University technician Chris who explained me each step very clearly, which made my life a lot easier. 

And this is it for a day of developing my film. First time it took me short time because my teacher Chris was next time me , but when I was trying to do it on my own the next week I was struggling to rewind the film onto the reel mainly because I forgot simple tips. So when I was doing it for the third time I was a lot quicker than before, and the developing process wen very smooth without no further issues. 

Have fun! :)

Dark Room practice and print exposures.

Hi everyone ! 

Today I would like to present you my prints I have produced in dark room, how they have been taken etc. 

First of all I want to say that all the images of my prints you see on my blog are my own pictures, and I have taken them by Expera Z3. They aren't with best background or high quality! I have taken quick images of them to show you what I was experimenting with, how I was producing prints in dark room and everything else you need to know about them. 

I have taken pictures of test strips and trail prints, because I want to show you what went wrong, what went well, what I could improve and all my experience I would like to share with you. 

The topic of all the pictures isn't the same, but while I was taking photographs at River Dee and local Park in Chester I wanted to present a beauty of our beautiful nature, landscapes and positive energy. The reason behind these ideas is, because I am a very positive person and I would like to explore it onto my prints and create some sort of story and meaning behind it. 

I have to admit that before I have made my first prints for my Photography module I have never ever taken any photographs with film camera and never expose any films in my life. So this was the very first time I actually discovered something like black and white prints in person, even though I had a dark room at my College ( seems like teachers were not too keen to show me how to experiment with black and white film ). I was very excited that I have a opportunity to play with photography in an "Old" way, and I am very delighted that I can show them off to others and talk about my inspirations and feelings about my work in dark room.

So lets talk about them one by one. 

This is first film sheet I have done. As you may see (or not) but a lot of prints are pitch black. The reason behind it is because I had no idea how to use SLR Camera.... First I have been given a SLR camera where I was told to set up "green" light, so I've done so, then I've discovered my camera is broken and I need a different one. But this time I had "needle" instead of flashing "green light" , and I wasn't sure what that "needle" actually means in that camera. I wasn't also aware of the fact that the light need to be good to take good bright picture. So I ended up with "few" totally black prints. But that wasn't a problem for me because I've learned from this and I tried not to make the same mistake again. Some of the shots went really very well as for the first time. I was just taking pictures of everything. But usually I was following a colour scheme, like beautiful "orange" trees or landscapes or anything that had bright coloured contrast. Of course it couldn't be shown on my black and white prints, but some of the contrast was nicely done even as a black and white prints. 

On this print you can see all of my negatives from first film. And I said before. Many of them did not go well because of my luck of knowledge and experience in black and white filming. I only picked two "best" shots to expose. 

Here they are. 

I have taken an image of them two prints because I don't have many trial strips of them to show you ( lost it ) , but I have edited that image with couple of notes. As you can see, I have mentioned the times of the exposures of each print. Both of them prints were not the best quality because I couldn't set up the focus manually. 

My left print "Forest" is good print but I would have to change the sharpness for better because if you look closer, you will see some bluerly texture. 

On the second Print on the right "Flowers" is pretty good, but yet again the sharpness of the focus could be improved. It is hard to say on your contact sheet print which print is best quality and has got the best focus. I thought these two prints could have good quality and focus out of all but I was wrong. However I was learning on them how to expose films. I was suggested to start from 2 s time and then 4 and 6 and so on. Finally I have decided myself to try bigger test strip with 10 s expose time. I thought its going to work well, but at the end I found out I was wrong again, and I should try go for 11 or 12 s time next time. 

My another film and negative and contact sheet. It looks much better now than my first exposure for sure!
Because of it I could choose couple of very nice shots I turned into prints. 

This is one of my favourite Prints. I actually have asked this couple if I could take some shots of them together cuddling on a bench, and they were more than happy to do it for me. I was absolutely delighted to take some shots of them, and the reason why I have that point of view is because it's just so nature and the image represents eldery couple with their push bikes resting on a bench at one of most beautiful places in Chester, River Dee. The bridge , and the river just brings everything that this image needs to fit with that couple. The final exposure of this print was 16 s. 
And to end with effect like this I had to make many test strips and spend very long hours in dark room. Here are some of pictures of the trial strips. 

So many test strips.... Why ? While I was exposing my test strips I've notice that the level of the mix of Devon in the tray was bit low even for small strip, but I still gave a go and it went as it looks now.  However later I wanted to try to expose a bigger picture of my test strips but each time the contrast and colour went worst and worst, so at the end I wasn't really sure what time exposure should I choose because every test print was different to each other even with the same time of exposure.

This print is pretty much the same as the above one, however the process of the exposure is with the same liquids and devon etc. as before. I kept trying to make some test strips which were getting worst on quality. They were almost blur and white or brown-ish at some point. It was very difficult to make any prints with those liquids etc.... So I came back the next day, told my tutor about it, and she has changed the mixes of the liquid, and my life became much better place. Print started to be very clear and contrasted with pure black and white colour on it. However I had to start from the scratch. So this images of the prints (and above) proves that you have to have good mixture of your liquids such as Devon, because it starts your process of making prints, and if does let you down, you're wasting your time and effort and paper and everything else. 

So the final print looks like this now. This is with totally different test strips , exposure time etc, so please don't compare them with the final print. 

I must admit all my prints looks better in life than on a photograph as it doesn't show the real contrast and colours, but I hope my Photography tutors will remember my prints. So end exposure time for this print was only 16 seconds. I think it could be bit lighter though, but I like dark prints , and I don't know why, that's the way I am with them prints to be honest. 

During this print I also have learned not to be hurry and do things in correct order otherwise you will ruin a lot of paper even if they are just test strips.  So correct order of exposing process is very important. You also have to have big patinas and good eye for details.

Producing this print I was very fortunate to have Andy Sanderson with me in a dark room. He though me very inspirational lesson, and made my life a lot easier regarding exposure time and the process of the photographic print. 

I went for this particular print because I thought it has a good focus, contrast and texture overall. I am happy me and Andy agreed on the same exposure time as soon as possible. 

And this is the test strips I was exposing. Yes there are only 2 test strips, which is pretty amazing to be honest with you. Usually it takes me about 3-6 test strips (at least) to finally discover the correct exposure time for each individual print....

As you can see I numbered each exposure time,so you can clearly see the difference between for example 4 seconds exposure and 6 seconds exposure. 

Andrew told me before I started exposing the strips that when we start using the print machine to expose out prints or test strips, we have to realise that the machine isn't warmed up so that start of 2 second time is just nothing. So if you want to save some time you can start of doing 3 or 4 seconds exposure time to make quick results etc. This was very handful to know because next time when I was doing my prints I went straight on 4 seconds exposure, and I have ended up with better results than when I was doing 2 seconds break. Very quick and effective method that every beginner should start to use. 

And the second and last strip was made with 18 seconds time, which was just perfect for this print, but Andy recommended me to cover some parts of the print with a hand while exposing, to avoid too much light in a tree area. I think without this method print could look different and not the way I planned to. Honestly I wouldn't change a thing about this print because I think is one of the best prints I have done so far from this film. 

That is it for today people ! I will post other posts about all my final prints later on, so you can see all of my final prints in a full shape of form. 

Practical Photography: Working in dark room with Andy Sanderson

Hi Everyone ! 

• Today as usual I would like to talk about my practical experiments with black and white printing, and how it all is going so far.So for past few weeks I was still working on my black and white printing, but last week (Tuesday/15/11/16) I had a privilege to learn from a Master of Printing Andrew Sanderson, who travels across UK to teach University students printing techniques and discuss their work. I must admit I am amazed by the way Andy took our one day session in Dark room. First he introduced himself, talking about his 3 books he wrote about photography printing, and about his photography experience, such as working for prestige cover magazines or advertisements. Once we went to the dark room, he was talking mainly about techniques and what we can do in printing to make our lives easier.  First thing that he have shown to us, is how we should contain our photos or any experimental pieces. For example:
• Our negatives should be presented in the same order as in contact sheet that we have produced first, and to be filled in the same folio sleeve.  This will make easier to find the right negative that we would like to expose after we had a look at our contact sheet and decided which picture to print. 

• Make sure all our test strips are named with notes of time of exposure, so we won't get confused with too many test strips. 

• Before you start doing anything with exposure, make sure your dark room is dark with the awful red light on, so you won't cause troubles once you take your paper out to expose any films. 

• Make sure your station is working correctly and has the right equipment that you will need to use to make your prints. This will help you safe your time looking for equipments etc. 

• While working with liquids Devos etc, make sure the mixes are right and aren't mixed up etc. 

• The last process of the printing which is washing your print out in a cold water must take 10 minutes. Personally I have never been told that, instead I was told to do 30 seconds wash up in a cold water and thats going to be enough for the picture. But Andy explained to me, more time the picture stays in the water then the better results it will bring. Why ? Because the silver ingredients that are in the paper need to take time to expose on the picture correctly.  Therefore you can take your picture out after 30 seconds of soaking it in the water to have a look what is the result but if you happy with your result put it back to the water for another 10 minutes to make sure the silver colour in the paper is fully exposed on the picture. 

All pictures are downloaded from his web page: http://www.andrewsanderson.com/

Printing Tips and advice:
 Sanderson's Work 

I mentioned about Andy's books that he published therefore, to give you a bit of clue who I am talking about in here, I'd like you to have a look at his fabulous black and white pictures he attached in his books. I must admit, the pictures are fantastic ! No wonder why.... Andy have been working as a Photographer since 1975, and knows almost EVERYTHING about Photography and B&W printing, so I am definitely going to buy all his 3 books ! 

Its a Still Life Picture-  A bit strange, because it doesn't represent too much, but I still choose it because I like the contrast of this B&W print.
Category: Still Life

                                                             Name of the print: Bent Nail 

 This Picture is a Landscape print. Personally, I really like the dark trees and that "little" animal at the end of the trees "tunnel" . Very unique piece of print I must admit ! :)
Category: Landscape

Name of the Print: Cow in

Clearing
 This picture is in "interior" category and is just so simple, but because it is so simple and there is nothing to be so impressed about, it's just natural and beautiful ! It just represents everyday life interior that are in our households.Category: At HomeName of the Print: Basket Planet Chair  

Another Picture from 

"Landscape" category. Honestly I don't know what it is, but because the texture and the light and shades are so mysterious , this picture seems to be even more interesting to me than any other prints Andy has made. 

Category: Landscape
Name of the Print: Cracked Mud  

This piece of print , to me is absolutely wonderful! Maybe because I love photographic flowers and nature overall... But the background shades and "smudge clouds" are just fantastic way of presenting nature in a different way !
Category: BatonicalName of the Print: Dried Lily  

This Print is just hilarious! You don't see what's made of, because first you see the funny face features, like teeth eyelids and nose. Then you see it's a tree trunk ! Pictures like this just makes us smile and laugh, therefore usually in psychological therapies people going through black and white prints that represents humour and positive life.
Category: HumourName of the Print: Face in the Tree 

Another funny side of photography prints!
First you see funny face but then you see this face is made out of pocket in jeans or trousers!Just made my day to be honest with you !Category: HumourName of the Print: Laughing Trouser Pocket   

When I have been collecting the pictures of Andy's website, I've seen this print, and I was just melted ! This seems to be very simple picture with a little toy duck situated on the floor, probably under some house object. But to me this picture represents sad child's memories. Sometime on some of the child abuse adverts, objects are representing in that kind of way. Black and white picture with toys on the floor etc.  So a bit emotional picture to me.
Category: At HomeName of the Print: Lost Duckling 

And the last but not the least picture to show you. The picture actually reminds me of route 66 in America. Why ? Because The road seems to be straight, and heading to some village homes.
The trees and rest of the nature features are nicely made dark. I think the reason behind it is, because Andy wanted the viewer to focus on the further scenario than what's going on around it.Category: Paper NegativesName of the Print: The Dip 

I could talk about Andy for very long time, but I can't unfortunately. However if somebody looking for good inspiration then you should look for his books and visit his web site, facebook or instagram! You'll find much more prints out there with specific description of each print.
Personally Andy is very nice guy who is always keen to help anybody who needs his advice.
Never thought person who is partly teaching me print in black and white will be my inspiration.

To be continued....

Photography Lecture : Alexander Rodchenko & Visual Texture

Hi everyone 

I don't know how to make an intro on any blog so I'm just going to get on with what I want to blog about today as a part of my Uni's Photography brief;) Today I would like to write about a little bit of visual context and how its been and is used in Photography. 

So first of all, I have never came across anything like visual context in my life, so I had to ask myself a question, what is visual context ??When I am explaining a context or idea to someone in person, it can be a bit difficult to keep it to the point. Sometimes when I am talking about specific context or subject , I easily trail off, developing on a minor details and trying to illustrate connections between different aspects of the concept. I am always trying to draw a wider image in which I can then simply place my personal ideas, hoping to make it more clear and easy to follow. 

                                         

 Telling the story in the photographs, means it is a visual context. I was thinking of explaining how does the visual context works in Photography and Art.  I finally came to a very simple definition and explanation of it, which is about making photographs that represents something and tell story the author was thinking about. For example, in a black and white photography, the most important aspect is the shades and light you're capturing while taking photographs. The light and also the texture on the photographs gives that interesting visual context you are looking for while taking photos.

 Alexander Rodchenko – Varvara Stepanova

However it is important that when we thinking of taking a great story photo shots, we are taking into consideration audience point of view, why? Because as a artist, you have to make a clear visual context in your photos, so people can understand what you're were trying to explore and trying to say pass on through each image. However you don't have to produce detailed story in your photos. In my Black and white photographs I like to explore my imagination and creative way of being, therefore I also like to leave a bit of enigma codes for my audience, so they can also use their imagination and maybe try to be in my shoes... ? So from what I have just said: 

• Think , what would like explore in your photos, and what they are representing. 

• Your photo story doesn't have to be detailed presented.

• Your audience have to understand the context of your photos.

• Use your imagination and creativity, also use some inspiration from other artists. 

• In black and white photography, light, shadows, and focus is very important, without this photography aspects and making a film on our SLR cameras, would be pointless. 

• You can leave bit of enigma and imagination with your audience. 

Column. 1935. Soviet photographer Alexander Rodchenko

Crazy, 1924. Photo printing from glass plate negatives

All images have been copied from http://soviet-art.ru/soviet-photographer-alexander-rodchenk

In the photography ( especially in black and white film photography) are key important composition of the photograph. Those composition allow you to understand the visual element that combines with photographs and create composition. 

• The angle: the vantage point from which the photograph was taken and generally used when discussing a photograph taken from an unusual or exaggerated vantage point.

• Background: the part of a scene or picture that is or seems to be toward the back.

• Balance: the distribution of visual elements in a photograph. Symmetrical balance distributes visual elements evenly in an image. Asymmetrical balance is found when visual elements are not evenly distributed in an image.

• Central focus: the objects(s) which appears most prominently and/or most clearly focused in a photograph.

• Composition: the arrangement or structure of the formal elements that make up an image.

• Contour: the outline of an object or shape.

• Contrast: strong visual differences between light and dark, varying textures, sizes, etc.

• Framing: what the photographer has placed within the boundaries of the photograph.

• Setting: actual physical surroundings or scenery whether real or artificial.

• Vantage point: the place from which a photographer takes a photograph.

If you would ask me any of those points before I have researched them I would never thought its to do with photography. Therefore it is very important to know them by heart and to follow them every time you're about to take some good shots by your camera. 

What I have realised is the fact that in photography point of capture is exactly the same thing as point of view in our life. In Polish we call it " Punkt widzenia, zalezy od punktu siedzenia" (means: the point of view depends on a point of seat) and that's a very true fact! So next time when I take my camera out for a nice photoshoot I will definitely take into consideration all these points, and that important point of view anyone can suddenly change.